Day 11 – Sept 10 – Merzbacher Meadow

Today was a short day going the rest of the way to Merzbacher Meadow, an established camping place overlooking the glacier. The hike was a relatively easy four hours along the lateral moraine.





The meadow had an old mouse-infested hut and five spiffy new dwellings airlifted in by German researchers from GFZ Potsdam, who were doing some high-tech glacial monitoring. In a way, they were following their compatriot Merzbacher, who had been one of the first explorers of this area in 1905. All of the huts were deserted for the winter, though they had kindly left their pit toilets open. We slept in our tent to avoid the mice.

We discussed our plan with our guide and interpreter. I was concerned that because of the limitations of camping sites on the glacier we would be forced either to miss our goal of getting to the high peaks or to do a series of inhumanely long hiking days to get out. I was also hoping to change our itinerary to go up the valley now while we appeared to be entering a stretch of good weather. Our guide explained that we had to stop for a day here to give the porters rest, but we could have ample time for our goals up the valley if we camped in alternative places on the glacier. We had no choice but to agree.

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